Interview with Chef Bryan Lavery
In the world of Ontario cuisine, few voices carry the weight of lived experience quite like Chef Bryan Lavery's. After five decades behind the stove - building landmark restaurants, championing farm-to-table ethos, and shaping London's culinary identity - he is stepping away from the daily demands of the Blackfriars Bistro. The beloved restaurant at 46 Blackfriars street will close doors April 2026, marking the end that began in 1996.
But retirement, for Lavery, isn't a full stop. It's a victory lap. The longtime Eatdrink magazine Food Editor and Writer at large, culinary tourism pioneer, and founder of Forest City Culinary Experiences is trading the line for the pen and the road - continuing his 25-year run as a food writer and expanding his experiential tours across Southwestern Ontario.
Grab a glass of something local and join us for a conversation with one of Onatrio's most respected - and most ethical - gourmets. Chef Bryan Lavery's story isn't over. It's simply to the next course.
Interview:
If I look back over these fifty years, I see a career built on the belief that a chef’s true work happens both inside and outside the kitchen. My journey has been about defining the culinary soul of Southwestern Ontario, one plate, one student, and one story at a time.
Before I set down roots in this region, I cut my teeth in the high-pressure environment of Toronto, working at some of the city's finest restaurants. That rigorous foundation gave me the tools I needed before moving on to my first local ventures, notably opening the Shark Inn in Bayfield and 99 King with Tania Auger. Those early days paved the way for La Cucina on King, and eventually led me to Blackfriars Bistro and Catering. At Blackfriars, we earned a four-star review and the Food Champion Award, becoming a staple of the local scene. After a 20-year hiatus from the bistro, I returned six years ago to steward the business through this final, rewarding chapter. In the years between, I operated Murano for over a decade. It was there that I realized my vision for a sanctuary of the slow food movement, and I am incredibly proud that it was the first restaurant in London to receive a prestigious five-star review.
My commitment to the slow philosophy went beyond the kitchen; I also co-founded the slow food convivium right here in London to advocate for a more intentional food system. This desire to educate and advocate has been the thread through my entire career. For many years, I taught regional French and Italian classes for Fanshawe College Continuing Education and served as a guest instructor for Loblaws.
Writing has allowed me to share these values with a broader audience. I’ve had the privilege of being a columnist for Scene Magazine, the London Free Press, Eatdrink Magazine, and Lifestyle for over 25 years. Today, I continue that conversation through my essays on Substack, where I explore the intersection of food, culture, and ethics. This lifetime of writing culminated in the Southwestern Ontario Culinary Guide, which earned a provincial award of excellence for mapping the region’s bounty.
My work remains rooted in the community. Whether through my involvement with the Covent Garden Market, my time at the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market, or launching Forest City Culinary Experiences—which won an Ontario tourism award of excellence—my goal has always been to connect people to their food. Being named the 2025/2026 Ontario Southwest Luminary of the Year reminds me why I started: to illuminate the path for the next generation. From hosting A Taste for Life for over 23 years to support the Regional HIV/AIDS Connection, to mentoring young chefs, I hope to leave behind a vibrant, ethical, and collaborative ecosystem.
What inspired you to become a chef? My journey into the culinary world was shaped and inspired by a mix of childhood experiences, European travels, and professional mentorship. Food writers MFK Fisher and Elizabeth David and chef Julia Child are major influences who helped incubate his passion for both food and food writing
Did you have early influences or mentors in the culinary industry?
In my early twenties, I was mentored by several chefs and restaurateurs with difficult temperaments and strong skill sets" that helped me develop a culinary backbone, My culinary philosophy was forged through a combination of early mentorships, rigorous professional training in Toronto, and transformative travels in Europe. I spent significant time "in the trenches" with a French-trained German chef, which I consider a foundational part of my professional "pedigree." Working at high-end French "bastions of haute cuisine" in Toronto provided my initial formal education in the culinary arts. However, culinary education is not a static thing.
Are there specific food styles you gravitate toward? Why? While I initially focused on French cuisine, travels to Italy shifted his inspiration toward regional cooking and I became a proponent of the Slow Food Movement. I was chosen as part of a contingent to partake in a culinary education with seven Canadian chefs to the Italian region of Emilia-Romagna. This was my first introduction to the Slow Food, the movement to safeguard traditional regional specialties, time-honoured techniques and farm-to-table cuisine. It was on this trip that I had an epiphany about regional culinary authenticity. I soon became a dedicated proponent of the local food movement, culinary tourism and Ontario's homegrown terroir.
What are some of the biggest challenges you face as a chef? I see cooking is a fundamental act of cultural and environmental preservation. I view the kitchen not just as a place of production, but as a sanctuary for safeguarding regional identity against the encroaching forces of industrialization and global standardization. Cooking is a way to preserve the dignity of the independent producer. In a world of "greedflation" and corporate "greenwashing," I use my menus to anchor the community to local "indie entrepreneurs, the farmers, bakers, and cheesemakers whose survival depends on chefs who refuse to compromise on sourcing. These are challenges the ethical chef faces on a day to day basis.
7. What tools/gear do you currently use for working in the kitchen and why?
In my kitchen, efficiency and precision are the dual engines that drive every service, and that begins with how we maintain our edge. While my personal collection of Wüsthof knives is the pride of my batterie de cuisine, the reality of a high-volume restaurant means we rely on a professional knife service for our house blades. This ensures that every member of the team has access to a perfectly honed edge for the relentless prep work. When it comes to mechanical power, a reliable food processor is the heartbeat of my mise en place. For the demanding techniques of French and Italian cuisine, whether I’m emulsifying a smooth brandade, pulsing a coarse soffritto, or kneading a dense pasta dough, I turn to the Robot Coupe. A couple of powerful food processors are also a necessity.
8. Have you worked in a show or at a convention, etc.? If so, what was that experience like? Yes, I have participated in hosted many shows.
9. What advice would you give to aspiring chefs looking to make a career out of it?
If I were to sit you down in my kitchen and share what fifty years in this industry has taught me, I’d start by telling you to look beyond the plate.
My journey began with life-changing mentors who gave me a solid culinary backbone, and my first piece of advice is to find yours. Don't just look for a famous name; look for a leader who values your growth. You have to embrace the integrity of the daily grind. The real heart of a restaurant isn't found in a glowing review or a perfectly plated photo; it’s found in the quiet, repetitive discipline of prep and the "common-sense sequence" of classic technique.
I want you to master the rules so that, eventually, you can break them. I always tell my students to wean themselves off a reliance on recipes. Recipes are a safety net, but intuition is your wings. Once you understand the why behind the heat and the knife, you’ll find your own voice. But remember, recognition in this industry doesn't always come with a fanfare. You have to be content with the internal satisfaction of a job well done.
Most importantly, I want you to lead with ethics. I’ve spent my career advocating for a sustainable industry, and that starts with how paying people a living wage. A successful kitchen cannot be built on the backs of underpaid, exhausted workers. Support your local growers, understand your provenance, and fight for fair wages. We are part of a delicate ecosystem, and we only thrive when we collaborate rather than compete.
Take the long view. Surround yourself with other innovators, share your knowledge, and be patient. A truly transformational career doesn't happen overnight; it emerges organically when you commit to your craft and your community with equal passion.
10. Can you share a quote or mantra that inspires you in your work?
“I'm not overly concerned about the restaurant’s level of sophistication; I am more interested in its ethos and cooking philosophy... I enjoy dining at places where the chefs and cooks are trained and passionate about their craft". – Bryan Lavery
Visit Bryan’s Substack: bryanparkerlaveryvery.substack.com
Photo credit: from Chef Bryan Lavery
